Late Spring To Early Fall
This period, roughly from June to September, is generally ideal, permits are also very hard to obtain and last year in 2022 I couldn’t score overnight permits.
Wildflower Season
Late Spring and early summer bring blooming flowers adding to the scenic beauty along the trail which would make an unforgettable hiking experience.
Weather Conditions
Check the weather and temperatures. We went in July, and because of the record snow that California had in winter there was snow past the third lake going up to fourth, fifth and seventh which we were not expecting. Fourth Lake was frozen and fifth lake was partially frozen. Be cautious of snowmelt, as it can affect trail conditions and creek crossings. It’s crucial to be prepared for varying conditions.
How many Distincts lakes are part of the Big Pine Lakes trail system?
We hiked the more scenic trail which is starting at the North Fork. The Big pine lakes area features 7 beautiful alpine lakes and 8 if you count Black Lake. All of these lakes have their own charm, and if you are looking to prioritize due to time constraints I recommend making it to the third lake. However, if you have the time and energy, continuing to fifth lake and seventh lake will take your breath away with incredible scenic views.
Getting Started
If you are planning to hike and stay overnight you need Inyo National Forest Permit however for day hiking no need for a permit. Currently the permit price is: $5 per Adult/Child + a Inyo reservation fee of $6. I received my permit via email one week before which was nice because I didn’t have to go pick it up at the visitor Center. I printed my permit before the no show deadline or your permit will be canceled by 10:00am, just be mindful that after you print your permit you cannot make any modifications unless you contact the visitor center.
I checked the permit printing instructions to make sure I was up to date with the terms of my permit and lastly be bear aware since you are going into bear country you will need a bear canister.
Directions From Los Angeles
The drive from Los Angeles to Big Pine Lakes typically takes around 4 hours with no
traffic and it’s about 10 miles from Big Pines.
We drove north on the I-5 freeway and merging onto CA-14 North, passing through Mojave. Continuing on US-395 North towards Bishop, we covered about 150 miles, savoring breathtaking views of the Eastern Sierra. Upon reaching Big Pine, we took the Big Pine Road (CA-168) exit, headed west, and turned left onto Glacier Lodge Road. After about 10 miles, we reached the trailhead.
Leave no Trace
Leave No Trace (LNT) principles are the ethical backbone of responsible backpacking, emphasizing on the importance of minimizing environmental impact while enjoying the great outdoors. When you venture into pristine landscapes, you have to dispose of waste properly, tread lightly to avoid unnecessary damage to flora and fauna, and leave natural and cultural features undisturbed. If you pack it in you pack it out! It's about more than just the current adventure; it's a pledge to safeguard the natural wonders for future generations. Through Leave No Trace, you weave a thread of responsibility into the fabric of your backpacking experience, ensuring that the trails and landscapes remain pristine.
We arrived at Big Pine Creek Campground experiencing an unexpected serenity on the bustling Fourth of July weekend. Though many campsites were reserved, an air of tranquility prevailed with several open spots. To avoid uncertainties, booking in advance is advisable, particularly for a one-night stay before an early start. There were so many beautiful colorful birds, I kept stopping and marveling at their plumage. I followed a sweet yellow bird that coincidentally led us to a charming spot—a stroke of luck that rewarded us with a campsite boasting a grand brick fireplace. The air was so crisp and at night we could only hear the water powerfully flowing from the creek. The sky was filled with stars and we slept with excitement to begin our journey the next morning.
Driving to Big Pine Creek Campsite
Our campfire at Big Pine Creek Campsite. (no fires in the backcountry)
Chipmunk looking for breakfast
We woke up at 5:30, and we felt the embrace of the crisp morning breeze harmonizing with nature's melodies. The birds serenaded the dawn, and the first rays of sunlight tenderly kissed our skin. Slowly, we packed our bags, and ate a delicious breakfast of fresh tamales and drinked juice. We parked our car in a designated area for overnight campers close to the beginning of our trail, we laced up our hiking boots, shouldered our backpacks, and armed ourselves with hiking poles, ready to delve into our long hike and departed at 9:45am. Within the initial mile, a bridge guided us over a captivating waterfall, and a sign beckoned us toward the N/S fork. After covering a quarter-mile, the trail parallels the North Fork of Big Pine Creek and meets an old use road. Veer right (North), cross a bridge over an enchanting waterfall, and traverse an open glacial valley.As you continue to climb up the mountain the terrain levels.
Once the dense trees gradually thin into the mountains and there is not a lot of shade so be prepared with enough water and shade to protect yourself. Nearing the valley's end, prepare for a steep ascent, conquering 1,700 feet of elevation gain through a series of long, steep switchbacks. Don’t forget to look back at the initial valley and, at times, catch views of the South Fork of Big Pine Creek basin. At 11:11am we finally made it at the top of the climb. You will see a sign and enter the John Muir Wilderness area, and as you enter you’ll encounter a mesmerizing waterfall, cascading from a hanging valley. The water was so abundant and powerful that we sat for 20 minutes gazing at its beauty. We talked to a few hikers and told us that they had never seen the area of Big Pine Creek so abundant in water because of the record snow that California had this year. It was simply amazing and we were in AWE.
Continuing from the edge of the waterfall, the trail gracefully ascends through a picturesque valley adorned with pine and aspen trees. The entire trail glimmers with spectacular views, this section, nestled among the trees, is particularly enchanting, definitely one of our highlights. As you meander through the forest, a delightful surprise awaits on the left side of the trail— the Lon Chaney Cabin, masquerading as the "Big Pine Creek Wilderness Ranger Hut". Fun fact is that this cabin was owned by 1920’s actor Lone Chabin, known for “A Man of a Thousand Faces”, sadly the actor was only able to use this property for about 6 months before his passing. This structure was designed by Los Angeles architect Paul Revere Williams, constructed in 1929 and now is part of the Forest Service. This place captivated our imaginations with dreams of having a similarly beautiful space nestled in a remote area, a great spot to stop for your lunch break and filtering water before continuing.
Choosing to savor the moment, we set up our double hammock in a tree after lunch, indulging in a rejuvenating nap. At 2:17pm we finally saw the sign toward Lakes 1-3 and Black Lake. The landscape unfolded with incredible distant views of Temple Crag, and yes we were getting closer because soon, the first lake greeted us with its turquoise waters, accompanied by a trek through slushy snow. Our initial plan was to find a campsite near Lake Two, but there were a lot of people and the scene led us to keep pushing ourselves until we reached the stunning Third Lake. This unexpected choice proved so rewarding, as the solitude of the Third lake offered a truly isolated and memorable experience in nature. Despite the approximately 6-mile journey, exhaustion melted away upon encountering the breathtaking scenery, with its crystal-clear turquoise waters revealing the rocks beneath. The proximity to Temple Crag added a special touch, making us feel so small by the mountain's grandeur, surrounded by the lush greenery of trees and sky. It was an unforgettable moment of serenity and beauty.
The view of Temple Crag from Third Lake is simply SPECTACULAR! We set up camp and by 7:00pm we scouted the perfect spot to enjoy the last rays of sun right by our campsite. The area we found overlooked the front of Temple Crag. We finally took our boots off, laid on the rocks and basked in golden sunlight that bathed the lake and mountain in a warm, enchanting glow. While Simon braved a cold plunge, I, bundled in layers, couldn't help but giggle at the playful contrast between chilly waters and the warm, glowing surroundings. Truly magical!
Also, let’s not forget about how incredible the sky was at night. We set up our hammock, warmed a cup of tea and watched the sky light up in stars.
Hiking along the North Fork Waterfall
Third Lake campsite in the forest
Camping by the snow
After cold plunge
Cold Plunge + Breathwork
View of Temple Crag
Awakening to the sun casting its first light on the majestic Temple Crag was a surreal experience. In the crisp morning air, surrounded by tranquility and devoid of any disruptive sounds, it felt like stepping into a dream. Each day in this newfound haven only seemed to surpass the previous one. Our day took an unexpected turn when we crossed paths with a couple who had conquered Temple Crag the day before. Their tales were nothing short of extraordinary. They generously offered us their prime spot on a flat hill overlooking Temple Crag and Second Lake as they prepared to depart. As we moved our campsite in their direction, we remembered that some fellow hikers cautioned us about the challenges of camping beyond Third Lake due to heavy snowfall. Taking their advice into consideration, we opted to extend our stay at Third Lake for another night, choosing daytime hiking instead. After setting up our new camp, we embarked on an adventurous journey toward Fifth and Sixth Lake.
The trail beyond Third Lake was a snowy wonderland, with slushy snow covering the path, making it nearly impossible to discern. Fortunately, with the aid of our downloaded offline map, we navigated the snowy terrain successfully.
Upon reaching Fifth Lake, we were greeted by a mesmerizing sight—half of the lake frozen, and the water displaying a profound shade of blue. While only one campsite was occupied by friendly fellow hikers, the rest lay hidden beneath the snow. Engaging in delightful conversation, they informed us of their departure the following day. Continuing our trek towards Sixth Lake, we traversed hills cloaked in pristine snow, discovering that camping in the Sixth Lake area was infeasible due to challenging conditions. Nevertheless, the enchanting beauty of the surroundings made the journey truly memorable. Returning to our camp, we savored a satisfying dinner before reclining in our hammock to witness the sky igniting with a mesmerizing display of stars.
Day 3 Third Lake Campsite
Good Morning
Hiking to Fifth Lake
Lushious nature
Armed with the knowledge we gathered from scouting the trail the day before, we decided to take a gamble and backpack all the way to camp at Fifth Lake—a solitary spot that felt like the result of a high-stakes roulette game. The ascent, with our belongings strapped to our backs, challenged us on those familiar switchbacks. To our sheer delight, upon arrival, the spot was miraculously unclaimed, as if it had been patiently waiting just for us. It was meant to be! This remote campsite became an indelible memory, a sanctuary far removed from the world, enveloped in unparalleled tranquility. After setting up camp, we explored a tiny island with a perfect view of Fifth Lake and the awe-inspiring alpine mountains that cradled it.
The lake's waters were partially frozen, tempting us to take a dip in the sub-zero temperatures. The plunge, though frigid, invoked a profound sense of vitality and exhilaration, I felt so alive in that water! After the cold plunge we sat on the shore, we did breathwork, meditated, and basked in the warm sunlight. The serenity of the moments felt surreal and the beauty we were surrounded by cradled our minds with peaceful thoughts. It was incredible to realize that within this vast campsite, it was just us, nestled miles away from civilization. Us and the mountains!
Here, it was us and nature, an intimate dance where we recognized that we are nature, and nature is life—the sweetest, most beautiful existence. Life is so sweet.
As nightfall descended, the temperature dropped drastically after the sun went down. Thankfully we prepared with a lot of layers. We opted to sleep without a rain fly, because it was so beautiful! We were beneath the open night sky, in awe we marveled at the stars laying next to each other covered in layers of clothing! Just before falling asleep, I saw the most beautiful and vibrant shooting star streaking across the sky, it gave me a teary eye as it was the perfect and most magical closure to a few days filled with California's most beautiful wonders.
Packs ready to go to third lake!
Relaxing in the little island
Meditating after cold plunge
Playing the flute for Pachamama
A very fragrant flower
Loving the sun and elegance of the snow
So happy we scored the only site available!
Inside of our tent
Our view
As the final day of our journey unfolded, the time had come to retrace our steps from the serene Fifth Lake back to the parking lot. Though I didn't meticulously measure the duration, our return journey was marked by deliberate pauses—moments to marvel, savor, and even indulge in a rejuvenating power nap cradled in our hammock. This hike, is one of my all-time favorites, occupying a cherished and irreplaceable space in my heart. Love the Eastern Sierras! Cheers and Never Stop Exploring!